How to: Draft a Half-Circle Wrap Skirt

One of my most popular posts has been my half-circle wrap skirt. Maybe you’ve seen it and were secretly hoping for a how-to? Well, today would be your lucky day! I have prepared instructions for how to make your own half-circle wrap skirt pattern based on your own measurements. Once you have the pattern made, the sewing process is very simple. Add waistband ties, hem the edges and you’re done.

A couple notes:

  • These are only directions for how to make the pattern. Sewing instructions are not included, but I’d be happy to answer any sewing questions in the comments.
  • I didn’t include fabric requirements because you’re basing the pattern off of your personal measurements. However, two yards of 60 inch wide fabric is a good starting point for a knee length skirt.
  • This style works well with a variety of fabric types and will really play up the natural characteristics of the fabric you choose.
  • Since the skirt is a half circle most of it will hang on the bias, (diagonal from the selvedges) so it’s a good idea to let the skirt hang for a day before you hem it. This will allow the fabric to relax and then you can straighten up your hem before you stitch it. The bias cut also means it will look great on any body.
  • Hemming a curve can be tricky. I recommend using a very narrow hem allowance or using bias tape or hem tape to help you control the fullness.

Without further ado…how to draft a half-circle wrap skirt.

Draft a Half Circle Wrap Skirt

From Pants to a Skirt

You may remember seeing and reading about my “yacht pants“. Basically, they didn’t feel like a garment that I would wear much, yet I just couldn’t bear to let the beautiful cotton linen blend sit unused in my closet. Thankfully, since the pants were a loose-fitting style, it was very simple to transform them into a skirt that I can use.

Here are the pants:

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And now the skirt:

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This skirt is definitely more my style. It’s actually very similar to a favorite skirt that I made quite a while back (before blogging), except it has an elastic waistband instead of a zipper. I have worn this skirt a few times and it’s so comfortable and keeps me cool. I am just estimating here, but I would say this skirt is about 113% more my style than the pants version were! And it was simple to do.

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In case you were wondering how I did it, I will describe my steps here. (Sorry, I didn’t get any photos for the visual learners.)

1. Use a seam ripper to un-sew the center leg seams.

2. Try on the garment (or put on your dress form) inside out.

3. Pin at the center front and center back where you want your new seam. Try to make sure this seam is parallel to the grainline of the fabric so that your new skirt hangs nicely. (I didn’t get mine perfectly on grain, but I got pretty close and I think it looks good enough.)

4. Also mark where you want your hem. Unless you are starting with a very full-leg style of pants, you will most likely have to mark your hem at knee-length or above.

5. Take your garment off. You want to do this with the pins in partly just so that you know you’ll be able to get your skirt on and off with whatever type of waistband and closure the pants had, although this shouldn’t be a problem if the pants already fit you at the waist and hips.

6. Measure and mark your hem plus hem allowance. Cut off excess pant leg. 

7. Sew your new center front and center back seam. Press and finish the seam with your preferred method. 

8. Press up your desired hem width and sew.

9. Wear and enjoy your new skirt!

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How To: Corner Pocket Hot Pads

IMG_0066To go with my sister’s new fabric napkins, I also decided to use the scraps to make a set of hot pads. Here’s how I did it!

Gather your materials:

  • fabric scraps
  • 1 terry kitchen towel
  • thread

Take out your tools:

  • ruler
  • iron
  • pins
  • sewing machine
  • scissors

1. Cut two 5 inch fabric squares from your scrap fabric for the corner pockets. (Photos of each step appear after the written instruction.)

IMG_00572. Cut 2 inch wide fabric strips. You will need an approximately 40 inch long strip. The easiest way to do this is to make a snip into the selvedge and tear across the width of the fabric. Do this once at the very edge of the fabric to be sure you’re fabric grain is straight. Do this again 2 inches below the first snip. You can piece strips together to achieve enough length or even use purchased bias tape. (Sorry for the weird coloring of this picture. I’m not sure what happened and did the best I could to edit the coloring.)

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3. Cut your kitchen towel. I found that two 7 inch squares worked well for the size of my hand, but you could cut a larger or smaller square. I also, after trial and error, found that it was easiest to sew the binding if you trim off the towel’s edges because they are thicker than the terry cloth body of the towel.

IMG_00564. Fold your pocket squares in half to form triangles. Press and then edgestitch along the fold.

IMG_00595. Press the long edges of your strips to meet in the center to form binding. Use a pin to create nice, even-width binding. Stick a long pin into your ironing board cover, slide your fabric strip underneath with the folds in position, stick the other end of the pin into your ironing board cover on the other side of the fabric strip. Pull the fabric strip underneath the pin as you press it. (I recently read about this tip somewhere and have forgotten where. I used it for the first time with this project and found it easier and less fiddly than using a bias tape maker. I have a feeling that this technique will be my new favorite method of making binding.)

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6. Place the pocket triangles in two opposite corner of your towel squares; the stitched edges should be parallel to one another. Pin the binding strips around the towel/hot pad body. Tip: Be sure that a tiny bit more fabric extends to the bottom side of the towel/hot pad body so that as you stitch you are catching the top and bottom of the binding. At the corners, overlap the excess created by turning the corner. Leave extra binding extending.

IMG_00627. Stitch around all four sides, about 1/8 inch from the inner edge of the binding, to secure the binding around the hot pad. Start stitching about 2 inches from the beginning of the fabric binding (you’ll need the ends loose so you can sew them together a little later). At the corners, I found it somewhat difficult to be sure that I was catching both sides of the binding. This tip made it easier: Stitch past each corner by one or two stitches, then backstitch to where you want to turn your corner. Make sure your needle is down in the fabric, then lift the presser foot and turn your fabric. Stitch to the next corner and repeat for the remaining sides. Stop stitching an inch or so before you reach your starting point.

IMG_00638. Twist the excess at the beginning and end of your binding strips so that they are right sides together. Determine where they should meet to complete the trip around the hot pad and place a pin in that spot. Sew the strips together where you pinned. Trim the excess and finish sewing the binding.

IMG_00649. You’re done! Give your hot pad a try as you make something delicious.

Some ideas for variations:

  • make the hot pad a circle or other shape instead of a square
  •  use matching thread instead of contrasting colored thread, especially if you are less confident of sewing the binding on straight
  • use purchased bias tape instead of making your own strips
  • add an extra loop of fabric at one corner so that you can hang up your hot pad