Labor of Love Jacket, Part 2

I’m making more progress on the jacket for my husband. I have the muslin fitted. I fitted it bit by bit. First, I constructed the front and back of the jacket and checked that it fit in the circumference and length. Next, I constructed the sleeves and did the same. Finally, I adjusted the collar and lapels to get the look he wanted. Here is a peak at what this looked like.

In this picture you can see how I pinned the collar and lapel for a narrower, leaner look. The originally marked roll line can be seen in pink Sharpie. You can also see the tuck I took horizontally above the waist to shorten the jacket. My husband is shorter than your average bear, so shortening the jacket was the most important alteration to make. The proportions of ready-to-wear jackets and patterns make my husband look shorter than he is. Fixing the length will make him look correctly proportioned when he’s wearing his new jacket.

A shorter torso also means he has shorter arms. I took another horizontal tuck between the elbow and the hem of the sleeves. You can see a little bit better here how I did it. I folded and pressed along the lengthen/shorten line given on the pattern. Next, I sewed a seam half the amount I wanted to shorten the sleeve by. I will use this tuck as a reference when I fix the pattern.

Here’s a view of the back. I think it looks pretty good. My husband specified from the beginning that he didn’t want a center back vent. He wanted two side-back vents. I had to change the pattern to reflect this wish. It was pretty easy to do. I just cut the extension for the center back vent off and moved it to the side back seam. I think this was a good design change. The horizontal lines along the back are less interrupted, which fits with the sleek look we’re trying to achieve. The next step will be to transfer all of these changes to the pattern and decide on fabrics to use.

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