The “Labor of Love Jacket” is in motion! I’m excited and just a little bit terrified. This stage is going to help me gain some confidence though. I am playing it safe and making a detailed muslin since it’s my first time sewing men’s clothing and my first time making a tailored garment. I’m crossing my fingers that this stage will be relatively pain-free and get me started on the right foot. Take a look at what I’ve accomplished so far.
First, I cut out the pattern pieces from the tissue paper and sorted out which ones I would need for the muslin (only 6 out of 27!). Then, I pinned them to the muslin fabric and cut out the correct size. I decided to go this route, rather than the more time consuming route of tracing the seam lines in and cutting more generous seam allowances, as suggested by Susan Khalje in Threads Magazine, Oct/Nov 2010. If I thought I would have to make some major alterations to the lines of the pattern, I would have done it that way.
After cutting, I traced over all of the important pattern markings (dots, grainline, darts, hem, etc.) with a Sharpie marker. Using a Sharpie marker saves me a bit of time because the ink bleeds through the tissue paper and leaves a visible, permanent mark on the muslin. If you press hard enough, it’ll even mark through both layers. (Note: I would never use this method to mark my fashion fabric because many of the markings would end of being permanently visible on the finished garment.)
Here’s what the muslin looked like after I lifted the tissue pattern off. You can see all the markings in pink Sharpie. There were a few that came out a little bit light and I just traced over them to be sure I wouldn’t miss them later. Next up, I’ll baste the muslin together and check the fit.